The Gambia is generally recognized to have the most agreeable climate in West Africa. The weather is subtropical with distinct dry and rainy seasons. From mid-November to mid-May, coastal areas are dry, while the rainy season lasts from June to October. Inland the cool season is shorter and daytime temperatures are very high between March and June. Sunny periods occur on most days even during the rainy season.

Handshaking is a common form of greeting; Nanga def (‘How are you?’) is the traditional greeting. Gambians are extremely friendly and welcoming and visitors should not be afraid to accept their hospitality. Many Gambians are Muslim and their religious customs and beliefs should be respected by guests; however, most understand the English customs and language. Visitors should remember that the right hand must be used for the giving or receiving of food or objects. Casual wear is suitable, although beachwear should only be worn on the beach or at the poolside. Only the most exclusive dining rooms encourage guests to dress for dinner. Despite the effects of tourism, traditional culture in music, dancing and craftsmanship still flourishes in the many villages on both banks of the River Gambia.

10 per cent service charge is sometimes included in hotel and restaurant bills.

Traffic drives on the right. There are 2700km (1675 miles) of roads in the country, about 32 per cent of which are paved. Roads in and around Banjul are mostly bituminised, but unsealed roads often become impassable in the rainy season. Extensive road improvements are underway; the latest additions are the Kombo coastal roads which have improved access to the airport and other popular sights and attractions. Bus: Local buses operate between Banjul and a number of towns and villages throughout the country. The services are fairly reliable, but buses tend to be overcrowded. Taxis: There are three types of taxis: Tourist Taxis are usually painted green and are licensed by the Gambian Tourist Authority. They operate a queue system outside hotels and resort areas and have a published tariff for set distances inside the taxi; General Purpose Taxis are usually painted yellow with green stripes - these are usually four person shared taxis which are usually used for short distances; Collective 'Bush' Taxis are usually seven-seater vans and go anywhere in the country, stopping wherever passengers want to get off, and picking up new passengers when there is room. It is advisable to settle taxi fares in advance. Car hire: AB and Hertz operate in the Gambia; check with the car hire company for details before traveling. Documentation: An International Driving Permit will be accepted for a period of three months. A temporary license is available from the local authorities on presentation of a valid UK license. Bicycle hire: Bikes are available to rent at many hotels and resorts.

The River Gambia is several miles wide at its mouth near Cape St Mary. It narrows to 5km (3 miles) at Banjul (known as Bathurst in pre-independence days), which is situated on St Mary’s Island and has a deep and sheltered harbor.

The only sizeable town in the country, Banjul is also the seat of government. There is an interesting National Museum. The area around MacCarthy Square has a colonial atmosphere, with pleasant 19th-century architecture. Nearby is the craft market. Souvenirs and local handicrafts can also be bought at various bengdulala (meaning a ‘meeting place’ in the Mandinka language); shopping areas consisting of African-style stalls, usually built near hotels.

The Atlantic coast to the south of Banjul boasts some of the finest beaches in all of Africa with no less than 15 hotels in the Banjul, Kombo and St Mary area. They are served by the international airport at Yundum, 15 miles southwest of the capital.

This is the dominant feature of the country and is the major method of irrigation, as well as providing opportunities for fishing, boating and sailing. It is possible to take boat trips up the river. Most remarkable is the abundance and variety of birdlife along the shores.

The Abuko Nature Reserve, which has crocodiles, monkeys, birds and antelopes, is worth visiting. Details of cruises can be found on hotel noticeboards. The Kiang West National Park also has a rich birdlife as well as other animal species; tourist facilities in the park are well developed. Banjul is the starting point for coach and river trips to all parts of the country and coastline. The whole river and the numerous creeks (known locally as bolongs) which join it, are fascinating to both the bird lover and the student of nature.

Fort Bullen at Barra Point was built by the British 200 years ago to cover the approaches to Banjul and the river, succeeding James Island Fortress (destroyed by the French) as the main point of defense in the colony. It can be reached by direct ferry from the capital. Oyster Creek is the center of an area of creeks and waterways which can be visited from Banjul.

Albreda was the main French trading post before they withdrew from The Gambia. Nearby is the village of Juffure, the alleged home of the ancestors of black American writer Alex Haley, author of Roots. However, the authenticity of his account has been questioned over the years. Visitors who want to see more of the countryside may cross by ferry from Banjul to Barra and travel by road to Juffure and Albreda (the journey lasts about 50 minutes), and then by canoe to James Island in the calm waters of the River Gambia. The Niokolo-Koba National Park in the Upper Casamance regions is a World Heritage site of outstanding beauty. The popular tourist destination of Tendaba is 160km (100 miles) from Banjul by river or road. Further upriver, the fascinating circles of standing stones around Wassau have now been identified as burial grounds more than 1200 years old. Georgetown was the ‘second city’ of colonial days, and is still the administrative and trading center of the region. Basse Santa Su is the major trading center for the upper reaches of the Gambia River. Handsome trading houses built at the turn of the century can be seen there. By the riverside at Perai Tenda can be found a multitude of abandoned shops formerly operated by European, Gambian and Lebanese merchants in the days when upriver commerce offered substantial profits for private traders.